Sushi Laguna simplifies dining choices

DINING OUT

When skilled master chef Jay Sada introduced Sushi Laguna on St.

Patrick’s Day two years ago, he brought to our town the extraordinary

culinary skills cultivated starting at a mere 16 years of age.

That was the beginning of an impressive career launched in his

native Fukuora, Japan, the city synonymous with Japanese cuisine. The

experience garnered from that time on came by way of prestigious

dining destinations in Aspen, Colo., Hollywood, the popular island of

Kauai and 12 years in top Orange County restaurants. Located Downtown

on Ocean Avenue, the intimate venue with its inviting alfresco entry

and central sushi island, has been a huge success since day one.

Whether you arrive with a group or choose to dine alone, a seat

facing the magical movements of these masterful chefs is the way to

best enjoy this entertaining adventure. You will be entranced with

the colorful selection of seafood framing the bar and the magnificent

nude alabaster bas relief on the wall beyond. The mouth-watering

displays are the culmination of Sada’s early morning forays at Los

Angeles’ most renowned fish markets where he examines various venues

for the best fish available at secret and individual locations. Rosy

ahi, white Japanese tai, glistening yellowtail, pink salmon and big

eye tuna are a few of the varied offerings among well over a dozen

denizens of the briny he purchases, each at the ready to be

artistically sliced, stuffed and ultimately presented with graceful

artistry.

To expedite lunch and dinner selections, the menu illustrates each

appetizer and entree with an appealing color photograph and accurate

description, the better to satisfy one’s dining expectations. You

will immediately be given a hot towel to cleanse your hands, then

served a small wood platform sided with pickled ginger, a mound of

wasabi and chopsticks. This is your base for the luscious morsels

awaiting. “Sushi Laguna’s Eleven” pictures an assortment of five

sashimi temptations and half a dozen sushi treats as well as

delectably arranged plates of tempura, salmon, beef and chicken

teriyaki. Priced from $15 go $22, each includes white or brown rice

plus miso soup or salad,

Demonstrated on the same page is an octave of sushi bar

selections. Rock ‘n’ Rolls at $9 show California, spicy tuna, tuna

and cucumber rolls. A sushi combo photo at $11 reveals 1/2 California

roll, yellow tail, salmon, shrimp, white fish, tamago on an onyx

plate. A chirashi bowl for $20 contains beautifully decorated sashimi

atop rice and for the same price, an overwhelming sushi dinner

containing an impeccable arrangement of octopus, hokki clam,

albacore, white fish, shrimp, tuna, yellow tail, salmon, California

roll, smelt eggs and tamago sushi. Small wonder that the fastidious

Sada has chosen to showcase his fascinating bill of fare with

photographs.

On the warm side come appetizers of panko-crusted soft shell crab

adorned with baby greens; Manilla clams steamed in sweet sake prior

to a soy sauce saute; New Zealand mussels seasoned with garlic butter

then baked with a mayonnaise coat; and negi-maki, an octave of tender

filet mignon strips wrapped around grilled scallions with asparagus

and garlic-teriyaki. These come in at $4 to $11.50.

Beyond traditional tempura and teriyaki dishes, eight tempting hot

entrees are pictured. Tarakasu translates to a pair of broiled butter

fish filets seasoned with sake-kasu, asparagus spears and broccoli

florettes. Japanese steak is a soy grilled rib eye beef on a steaming

skillet tossed with mushrooms, onions and carrot sticks.

Panko-crusted pork cutlet fried in tangy tonkatsu sauce is sliced and

wreathed in crisp greens, these are priced at $7.95 to $13.

The lunch menu features some two dozen selections starting at

$1.50 for a quartet of California roll slices going to $9.50 for a

tempura / teriyaki beef combo, chirashi and una-don barbecue eel over

donburi rice. Green tea, red bean and mochi ice creams are all of $2.

And, with one of the most extensive sake selections imaginable, you

are missing a rare part of the Japanese experience without a carafe

of hot sake or a glass of chilled sake generously spilling over into

the traditional enamel box, the more for sipping! Kompai!

* GLORI FICKLING is a longtime Laguna Beach resident who has

written restaurant news and views columns since 1966. She may be reached at 494-4710 or by e-mail at [email protected].