Chronic Tacos is a local favorite

Greer Wylder

After a night out on the town, Newport locals Dan Biello and Randy

Wyner were desperately looking for some great eats. No one wanted

Jack In the Box, so they were out of luck. Yet, that night they did

spot a great location that they thought would make the perfect taco

shop, and the owner desperately wanted out of the lease. Randy and

Dan grabbed it. They were certain with its proximity to the beach at

Coast Highway and Superior that it would become a favorite hangout

for hungry surfer types.

After 10 months of renovations Chronic Tacos opened in July 2002.

(Its name came from Wyner’s silk-screening business, Chronic

Industries in Costa Mesa.) This no-frills restaurant serves excellent

food. Through connections they adapted recipes from El Toro

Carniceria-Meat Shop in Santa Ana. Chronic Tacos’ reputation spread

quickly, so they never had problems attracting customers. They got

their young surfers fresh off the waves, but now Hoag Hospital

doctors and staff zoom down on their breaks too, along with local

police, who stop by between shifts.

Chronic Tacos say they “smoke the competition,” but that’s a tough

one. Just up the road there are other great and equally economical

fast-food Mexican style restaurants. Wahoo’s Fish Tacos on Placentia

in Costa Mesa is incredibly successful; El Toro Brava serves fabulous

authentic Mexican food on West 19th Street, in Costa Mesa; and

further down 19th Street, Taco Mesa serves healthy-style “new wave”

Mexican food.

At Chronic Tacos everything is made to order and served in

generous portions. Tortillas have no preservatives; assorted salsas

and chips are fried-up crisp daily. They never use lard. Choose from

delicious custom-made meats and fish: carne asada (grilled marinated

steak); pollo (grilled marinated chicken); carnitas (fried pork);

pastor (spicy pork marinated with onions and pineapple); fish

(grilled or Tecate beer battered mahi); and fresh shrimp (grilled

with butter, garlic or Tecate-beer batter).

At 9 a.m. on weekends there’s already a line for Chronic Tacos’

gringo breakfast burrito. It’s a combo of bacon, chopped, grilled

potatoes, scrambled eggs, Monterey Jack cheddar and salsa wrapped in

a fresh El Toro Brava flour tortilla ($4.25). Other breakfast

favorites are huevos rancheros ($3.99); chorizo burrito; and muchaca

Burrito, grilled beef with onion, tomatoes, eggs and cheese ($4.25).

The rest of the day they serve “build-your-own burritos.” It comes

with a choice of Spanish, or cilantro lime rice; pinto, black or

refried beans; and extras: lime, cilantro, onion, cheese and sour

cream. Double portions of meats and fish are only a $1 extra. There

are vegetarian choices too. Enormous “fatty tacos” are only $2.79.

Fish and shrimp are 50 cents extra.

Other outstanding choices include the tortas ($4.75), which are

made from homemade bolillo (bread) with a choice of any additions, or

rice bowls ($5.49), with any combination of meats, beans and salsas.

Or, order one of the seven great combination plates for those with

large appetites. Most dishes include drinks, chips and salsa.

Prices ranges: burritos ($4.99); fatty tacos ($2.79); bowls

($5.49); torta ($4.75); quesadillas ($3.99 to $5.49); nachos ($3.99

to $4.99) taquitos ($3.99) combos ($4.35 to $7.49); breakfast ($1.75

to $4.99).

Open from 9 a.m. to 10 p.m. Monday through Saturday; 9 a.m. to 9

p.m. Sunday. 4533 W. Coast Highway in Newport Beach. (949) 642-2458.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.