A taste of Moscow in Costa Mesa

Greer Wylder

The Russian Christmas and New Year is now celebrated on Jan. 7 and

Jan. 13, respectively, which marks the best time of the year to taste

home-style gourmet Russian foods.

The Moscow Deli in Costa Mesa serves authentic Russian cuisine and

imported groceries. A bit of history is necessary to understand the

Russian winter celebrations and customs and their relationship to

traditional dishes.

Before 1917, Russians celebrated Christmas on Dec. 25. After the

Bolshevik Revolution in 1917, Christmas was banned. New Year’s

evolved into the major winter holiday, borrowing the Christmas

customs, but without the Christianity. So decorating a fir tree, a

visit from Grandfather Frost (called Ded Moroz) and the gift

exchanges all took place on New Year’s.

After the fall of Communism in 1992, the Russian Orthodox Church

renewed Christmas as an official holiday, but celebrated it on Jan. 7

(following the old Julian calendar rather than our western date,

which follows the Gregorian calendar). In today’s Russia, the New

Year celebration remains the central holiday with its adapted

Christmas customs. For the most part, Christmas is solely a religious

feast.

What does all this mean here in Costa Mesa? That next week is the

best time to visit the Moscow Deli to enjoy the winter holidays

Russian style. Celebrate with home-style gourmet food, along with

some great icy vodka.

Most Russian Christians fast to prepare themselves spiritually for

Christmas, which means no meat, eggs or milk. Traditional dishes

served at Christmas vary from family to family, but most include

pirog (Russian pies made with meat or cabbage), pelmeni (meat

dumplings), and vareniki dough pockets usually filled with potato,

cheddar cheese, sauerkraut or blueberries. These are often served

with onions and sour cream. Foods made with wheat berries or other

grains symbolize hope and immortality; honey and poppy seeds ensure

happiness, success and peaceful rest.

For the past seven years, Moscow Deli owners Yelena Jagan and

Yelena Kosimov have attracted a loyal following with their

traditional dishes. Many customers come from Russia, Poland, Hungary

and Bulgaria, and others just like to try different cuisines.

Homemade deli items are Moscow Deli’s specialty. Each day, delicious

dishes are made including piemeni (Russian ravioli) kuiebiaki (meat

cabbage pie) and handmade blini. All foods can be ordered deli-style

or off the menu that offers generous portions of appetizers, soups,

salads, and meat, fish and poultry combination plates and desserts.

Appetizers are a bargain ($1.99), and include eggplant caviar,

which has nothing to do with roe, but is a pureed mixture of roasted

eggplant, tomato, onion, olive oil and seasonings. It’s served as a

dip or spread. The Georgian caviar includes eggplant, mushroom, nuts

and garlic. Borscht, the fresh beet soup, is prepared with an

assortment of vegetables and herbs and can be served hot or cold

($2.69).

Other soups include a spicy meat, mushroom or barley soup ($2.69

to $3.69). Six combination plates are served with croquets (small

round fried mixtures of meat or vegetables dipped in egg and

breadcrumbs), and fresh salad or choice of pickled vegetables.

Selections include beef Stroganoff ($4.99), stuffed cabbage rolls

with meat ($4.69), and chicken or fish cutlets ($4.99). For dessert

choices, select from delicious poppy seed pirog, filled with sweet

cheese and berries; Napolean; and custom Russian-style cakes,

including light meringue-based Kiev cakes.

Gourmet delicacies available feature Baltic, Polish and German

herring, and three types of Russian caviar. There are also Polish

breads, European breads, Russian sodas, international candies and

gifts. The selection includes an extensive selection of Russia’s most

popular souvenir, the matrioshka (hand-painted nesting dolls),

Russian magazines, CDs, skin and hair care, and children’s items.

Moscow Deli also offers custom catering.

* BEST BITES runs every Friday. Greer Wylder can be reached at

[email protected]; at 330 W. Bay St., Costa Mesa, CA 92627; or by

fax at (949) 646-4170.